Folding Hand Saw | SK5 Steel Pruning Saw With Locking Hardwood Handle

Most Saws Don't Cut Badly. They Flex.

You get three strokes into a branch, the blade bows, the kerf closes on it, and now you're sawing the saw. That's not a sharpness problem — it's a stiffness problem, and it's why cheap pruning saws feel like hard work from the first cut.

This one uses SK5 high-carbon steel: hard enough to hold an aggressive tooth pattern, stiff enough that it tracks straight through green wood without wandering. It folds into its own handle when you're done.

What You Notice Using It

• SK5 high-carbon steel blade. Considerably harder than the mild steel used in budget saws. It keeps its edge through a season of branch work instead of going dull in an afternoon.
• It doesn't bend. The blade thickness and taper are chosen so it stays rigid under load. Straight cuts, less binding, less effort per stroke.
• Angled handle. The blade sits at an angle to the grip, which lines your wrist up with the cut. Overhead branch work is where you feel the difference.
• Locks open, locks closed. A positive catch at both ends of travel. It won't fold on your fingers mid-stroke, and it won't spring open in a bag.
• Hardwood handle with a non-slip finish. Comfortable through a long session and it doesn't get slick when your hands are wet.
• Folds to pocket size. The blade is fully enclosed when closed, so it goes in a rucksack or a coat pocket without a sheath.

What It Cuts

• Live branches and green wood up to roughly the diameter of the blade depth
• Hedge and shrub thinning
• Firewood and kindling
• Fence rails, battens and small timber
• Camping and bushcraft — packs small enough to always be with you

Specifications

Safety

• Confirm the open lock has engaged before the first stroke. A folding saw that closes under load will take a finger.
• Fold and lock it closed before it goes in a bag or pocket.
• Cut on the pull stroke with your free hand well clear of the blade path, not steadying the branch beside the cut.
• Wear gloves and eye protection for overhead work — falling debris is the more common injury, not the blade.

Common Questions

Which size should I buy?
Medium for general pruning, shrubs and anything you'll carry in a pocket. Large if you're regularly through thicker limbs — a longer blade means fewer strokes and less binding on deep cuts.

Does it cut on the push or the pull?
The pull. That's what lets the blade be thin and stiff rather than thick and heavy, and it's why it doesn't buckle. Let it do the work on the way back and ease off on the return.

What's the maximum branch size?
Practically, anything up to about two thirds of the blade length. You can get through more, but past that point a bow saw or a chainsaw is the right tool and you'll be fighting this one.

Can the blade be replaced or sharpened?
Hardened impulse teeth like these are not practical to sharpen at home — a file will skate off them. Treat the blade as a consumable over several seasons rather than something you maintain.

Will it rust?
High-carbon steel will, if you leave it wet with sap on it. Wipe it down after use and it'll be fine. This is the trade for the hardness — stainless would be more forgiving and would go blunt faster.

Ordering With Confidence

• Tracked shipping on every order
• Secure checkout
• Responsive customer support